Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
